어깨 패드(패션)

Shoulder pads (fashion)
1947년 뉴욕 워싱턴 스퀘어를 걸으며 어깨 패드가 달린 코트를 입은 재즈 가수 앤 해서웨이

어깨 패드는 착용자에게 어깨가 더 넓고 덜 기울어진 듯한 착각을 주기 위해 남녀 의류에 사용되는 천으로 덮인 패딩의 한 종류이다.처음에는 어깨 패드가 반원형이나 작은 삼각형 모양이었고 양털, 면 또는 톱밥으로 채워졌다.어깨선을 늘리기 위해 소매 맨 위에 배치되었습니다.이것의 좋은 예는 1890년대 스타일을 기반으로 한 "레그 오톤" 소매나 더 작은 부풀린 소매에 사용하는 것입니다.남성 스타일에서 어깨 패드는 주로 정장, 재킷, 오버코트에 사용되며, 보통 어깨 윗부분에 꿰매고 안감과 겉감 사이에 고정됩니다.여성복에서, 그들의 포함은 그 날의 패션 취향에 따라 달라진다.비패션적인 관점에서 보면 일반적으로 어깨가 좁거나 경사진 사람들을 위한 것이지만, 소재의 무게로 인해 특히 스웨이드 블레이저와 같은 특정 원단의 자연 특성을 보완하기 위해 정장이나 블레이저에 어깨 패드가 필요한 경우도 꽤 있다.어깨의 폭을 넓히는 패드가 선호되는 시기도 있습니다.따라서 1930년대와 1940년대, 1980년대(1970년대 후반부터 1990년대 초반까지 포함), 2000년대 후반부터 2010년대 초반까지 의류(특히 비즈니스 의류)에 많이 추가되었다.

1930년부터 1945년까지

어깨 패드는 원래 1930년대 패션 디자이너 엘사 스키아파렐리와 마르셀 로카스가 1931년 [1]디자인에 포함시키면서 여성들에게 인기를 끌었다.로카스가 가장 먼저 [2]발표했을지 모르지만, 스키아파렐리는 1930년대와 40년대에 그들을 홍보하는데 가장 일관성이 있었고, 그녀의 이름이 그들에게 가장 [3][4]애착을 갖게 되었다.두 디자이너 모두 동남아시아 전통 [5][6]의복의 화려한 어깨 테두리와 작은 허리춤에 영향을 받았다.이듬해 조앤 크로포드는 영화 레티[7] 린튼에서 의상 디자이너 에이드리안이 디자인한 드레스를 입고 나왔다.이 드레스는 메이시 백화점에서 널리 복제되어 판매되어 [8]외관을 대중화하는데 도움이 되었다.의상 디자이너 Travis Banton이 Marlene Dietrich를 위해 어깨가 넓은 디자인을 한 것도 대중의 [9]취향에 영향을 미쳤다.

곧, 야회복 차림에서도 볼 수 있는[12] 넓은 패딩 [10][11]어깨는 아마도 1935-36년에 [13]Vionnet에서조차 [14][15]볼 수 있는 다양성의 정점에 도달했을 때, 로카스는 높고 꼬집힌 [16]어깨를 보여주었고, 피게는 노나 [17]노처럼 수직으로 벌어진 어깨를 펼침으로써 로카스를 앞질렀다.이 모든 사치품 경쟁 속에서, 가장 [19]넓은 어깨는 1933년 디자이너들의 호감을 잠시 잃었을 때도 포기하지 않았던 스키아파렐리에게서 [18]나온 것이라고 한다.

전쟁은 이 기간 내내 공중에 떠 있었고 패션은 그것을 에팔레트와 다른 군사적인 [20][21][22]세부 사항들에 반영했지만, 1939년 제2차 세계대전이 시작된 후, 여성의 패션은 더욱 [23][24]군국화 되었다.재킷, 코트, 그리고 특히 드레스는 남성적인 스타일에 영향을 받았고 어깨 패드는 더 부피가 커졌고 어깨 윗부분에 배치되어 [25]목 쪽으로 약간 기울어진 단단한 느낌을 연출했다.

어깨에 패드를 두른 스타일은 이제 란제리를 제외한 모든 의복에서 볼 수 있게 되었고, 그래서 1940년 미국 디자이너 클레어 맥카델이 그녀의 옷에서 그것들을 없애고 싶어 했을 때, 그녀의 금융가들은 그들의 판매가 타격을 받을 것을 두려워하고 패드를 유지해야 한다고 주장했다.McCardell의 혁신적인 반응은 착용자가 쉽게 제거할 수 있도록 매우 간단한 스티치로 스티치를 삽입하여 1980년대 [26]벨크로로 고정되었던 어깨 패드의 유연성을 미리 보여 주는 것이었습니다.이듬해 영국 디자이너 몰리뉴는 1945년[28] 발렌시아가에 의해 더 멀리 옮겨지고 디올의 슬로프 어깨가 있는 1947 코롤레 [29][30]컬렉션에서 절정을 이루게 될 하이패션의 예언적 트렌드 중 하나인 어깨 [27]패드를 없앴다.

1945년 영화 밀드레드 피어스에서 조앤 크로포드가 어깨가 넓고 과장된 모피 코트를 입었을 때도 큰 어깨가 유행했지만 전쟁이 끝나고 여성들이 좀 더 부드럽고 여성스러운 [31]외모를 갈망하면서 대중들 사이에서 어깨 패드의 인기는 결국 시들해졌다.그러나 네모난 어깨 코트는 1950년대 초반까지 여전히 천연 어깨 옷 위에 착용되었다.

남성 패션에서, 주트 수트는 그들만의 인기를 가지고 있었다.기본적으로, Zoot 슈트는 "일반적인" 투피스 슈트에 바탕을 두고 있지만, 한두 사이즈 크기만큼 크기 때문에, "미치광이 [citation needed]감방처럼" 패딩으로 채워져 있어야 했다.

이 시기에는 어깨 패드의 소재는 뻣뻣하고 펠트로 덮인 솜으로 되어 있어 조절이[32] 용이하지만 세탁 [33]시 모양이 잘 잡히지 않았다.

1945년부터 1970년까지

1940년대 후반에서 약 1951년까지, 일부 드레스는 거의 눈에 띄지 않을 정도로 패딩이 거의 없는 부드럽고 작은 어깨 패드를 특징으로 했다.어깨선을 살짝 형상화하는 기능이 있었던 것 같습니다.

1950년대까지 어깨 패드는 1940년대 초반 전성기 때처럼 드레스, 니트, 블라우스가 아닌 재킷과 코트에만 등장했습니다.1960년대 초, 이것들은 서서히 눈에 띄지 않게 되었고, 10년 중반에는 어깨 보호대가 사라졌다.[34]

1970년대

숄더 패드는 1970년대 초 영국 패션 디자이너 바바라 훌라니키와 그녀의 레이블 비바의 영향으로 여성복에 등장했다.비바는 1930년대와 1940년대의 스타일에 영향을 받은 디자인을 제작하여 어깨 패드의 부드러운 버전을 부활시켰다.오시 클락은 그 당시 어깨 패드를 사용한 또 다른 런던 디자이너로,[35] 1968년부터 40년대 부활의 정장을 선보였습니다.동시에, 다른 패션 수도의 몇몇 디자이너들도 1940년대의 분명한 영감을 담은 패딩 숄더를 선보였습니다.1971년 가이 라로체,[36] 파투,[37] 미셸 고마, 미셸 오자드,[38] 티에리 뮬러[39], [40]1972년 스콧 배리, [41]1973년 다니엘 헤흐터, 1971년과 [43]1973년[42] 발렌티노, 1972년과 [45]1974년[44] 장 루이 셰러, 그리고 1970년과 [47][48]71년 이브[46] 생 로랑.그 모습은 사소한 추세, 하지만, 대부분 파리, 런던에서 패션 따라 – 특히 생 로랑의forties-revival 시도가 넓고 그래서 표정이 상대적으로 손이 미치는 곳에 한정되어 있다는 것 criticized,[50]다 따라서 이들 패드를 넣은 어깨., 디자이너들을 보이는 것으로 나타나 주류 acceptance[49]에 결코 도달하지 못했습니다 a보다 더 많은 구성하지 않았어그 nd느긋하고 자연스러우며 종종 청바지에 기반을 둔 [51][52][53][54]그 시대의 전형적인 옷 스타일을 선호하는 대중들

생 로랑지만, 쉽고, 현대 모습 대신 40대 초반 look,[55]하는 쪽 sensibly-proportioned로 더 큰 뉴의 노동력에 들어갔던 표준 officewear 여성들 선호에 적합한 가끔 padded-shoulder 상의는 인기 있고, 농민의 민족 외모 중 mid-seventies 동안 흩어져 있는 것으로 나타났습니다.mber지난 [56]10년간 존 T. 몰로이의 1977년 '성공을 위한 여성의 옷'과 마이클 코다의 '성공!'[57][58] 출판물로 성문화된 모습.이러한 비즈니스 블레이저에서 가끔 볼 수 있는 어깨 패딩은 눈에 띄지 않았고, 일반적인 남성 정장 재킷과 마찬가지로 두드러지지 않았고, 가장 하이패션 버전에는 패드가 전혀 들어 있지 않았으며, 이는 당시 패션계를 지배하던 무방비 빅룩에 부합한다.

1980년대 숄더 패드의 기원

1978년 가을, 모든 패션 수도의 디자이너들은 갑자기 1980년대를 [59][60][61][62][63][64]특징지을 넓은 어깨 스타일을 선보이며 전반적으로 넓은 어깨를 지지할 것이다.이전 [65]해에는 어깨가 넓어지는 경향이 있었지만 1978년 1월 이브 생 로랑의 컬렉션으로 생 로랑이 슬림한 [66][67]바지 위에 과장된 어깨 패딩이 있는 재킷을 선보였을 때 트렌드의 첫 분명한 표현으로 인용될 것이다.장 루이 셰러는 생 [68][69]로랑 이틀 전에 비슷한 네모난 어깨 디자인을 선보였지만 언론에 인상을 [70][71]남긴 것은 생 로랑의 어깨였다.이후 노마 카말리,[72] 조르지오 아르마니 등 여러 사람이 80년대 빅 숄더 트렌드를 시작한 사람이 누구인지에 대한 다양한 주장이 제기될 수 있지만 1978년 처음 트렌드를 시작한 소식통으로부터 인정받은 디자이너는 생 로랑이기 때문에 그에게 공을 돌리는 것이 타당해 보인다.

몇 달 후 다른 패션계의 대부분이 어깨가 넓은 외모를 보여주었을 때, 두 가지 다른 버전이 있을 것이다.그, 세인트 Laurent,[73]칼 라거펠트 Chloé,[74]티에리 Mugler,[75]클로드 몬타나에,[76]피에르 Cardin,[77][78]장 클로드 드 Luca,[79]앤 마리 Beretta,[80]프랑스 Andrevie,[81]와 다른 번호 같은 파리 디자이너들의 혜택을 받은 첫번째지만 과장된 명시적1940s-revival silhouette[82][83]은 맞춤 양복에 근거한 것이고.드레스, 더 많은slim-skirted haute.쿠튀르 40대는 70년대 [84]초 생로랑에 의해 추파를 던졌던 플레어 스커트, 제2차 세계대전 유틸리티 슈트에서 영감을 받은 모양보다 더 멋집니다.이번에는 플랫폼 슈즈나 스누드는 없습니다.이 첫 번째 버전은 복고풍으로 언급되었고 1940년대 액세서리,[85][86][87] 20세기 중반의 공상과학 영화 외관,[88][89][90][91] 그리고 군사적 [92][93]영향을 포함했다.

두 번째는 좀 더 현대적인 스포츠웨어 룩으로, 쉬우면서도 슬림한 캐주얼웨어에 어깨 패드를 추가했는데, 주로 미국과 이탈리아 디자이너인 페리 [94][95]엘리스, 노마 카말리,[96] 캘빈 [97]클라인, 조르지오 아르마니가 [98][99]선호했다.

대부분의 디자이너들이 패딩 어깨의 새로운 트렌드를 채택했지만, 켄조와 웅가로 등 몇몇 저명한 디자이너들은 적어도 처음에는 자제했다.겐조는 대부분 그의 인기 있는, 쉽고 편안한 옷에shoulder-padded eighties,[100][101][102][103]에도지만 Ungaro 한 시즌이나 두시간 정도에 쉽고, 70년대 소프트 Look/Big Look,[104]을 보여 주기 위해 열광적으로 1979[105]에 l.를 만들고big-shoulder 스타일을 채택하기 전에 계속해서 새로운 트렌드를 거부할 것 물었습니다Ook 그의 서명을 followi.ng [106]10년

이때 어깨선은 대개 1940년대에 보였던 중앙을 향해 내려가지 않고 바깥쪽 가장자리에서 목까지 이어져 있었고, 심지어 엄청났을지라도, 1940년대에 [107]사용되었던 패드에 비해 훨씬 가볍고 모양을 잘 잡아주었으며, 지금은 대부분 거품이나 다른 가볍고, 잘 생긴,[108] 성형 가능한 재료로 만들어졌다.수십 년 동안 여성복에서 어깨 패드가 이렇게 흔하지 않았기 때문에, 일부 패션 업계에서는 그들에게 필요한 맞춤 기술이 [109][110][111]없어지지 않았을까 걱정했다.처음에는 60대와 70년대의 내추럴 숄더에서 이 큰 변화 것처럼 보이extreme[112][113][114][115](그리고 종종 피에르 Cardin[119]와 클로드 Montana[120]심지어 파고다 어깨 것을 보여 주는 was,[116][117][118])았지만 새로운 라인의 제압했다 버전은 public[121][122]에 padded-shoulder look[123]이 그렇게 입학 허가를 받았다.확실히....이건 디자이너들 가을 1978[124]월에 주장.1980년대 중반에는 거리의 [125]여성들 사이에서 흔하게 볼 수 있을 것이다.

1970년대 남성복의 어깨 패드

1970년대 일반 대중 시장 남성 의류는 정장과 스포츠 재킷을 형성하는 표준적이고 눈에 띄지 않는 어깨 패드를 계속 선보였지만, 더 많은 하이 패션 남성 의류는 기본적으로 하이 패션 여성 의상과 같은 궤적을 따라갔으며, 한 두 시즌 정도 지연되었다.이에 따라 1973~74년[127][128] 다카다 겐조(高田 in tak)가 여성복, 몇 년 [129]뒤 아르마니(Armani)가 남성복으로 선두를 달리던 20년대 중반 [126]빅룩(Big Look)과 소프트룩(Soft Look) 시대에 어깨 패드 등의 내부 구조가 제거됐다.언제 최신 패션 womenswear 아주 체계화된 옷에 1978년 가을을 위해 큰 어깨 패드와로, 최신 패션 남성복도 선례를 따라 다음 year,[130]가르뎅 복제하고 있는 그의 여자들의 탑 어깨에 부하들의 suits[131]고 심지어 아르마니를 추가하는 이례적으로 뚜렷한 어깨 패드에 그의 남자 jackets,[132][133] 추셀 것이다.건축 중에 계속해서다음 10년 동안.

1980년대

1980년대 초반은 페플럼, 배트윙 소매 및 다른 시대의 디자인 요소들이 새로운 [134][135][136][137][138]시장을 위해 재해석되면서 1940년대 초반의 여성 이브닝 웨어 스타일에 대한 관심이 되살아나는 1970년대 후반부터 계속되었다.숄더 패드는[139] 실루엣을 정의하는 데 도움이 되었고 1978년 [140]가을 컬렉션에서 소개된 컷 폼 버전, 특히 제2차 세계대전 시대를 연상시키는 잘 깎인 슈트에서도 계속 만들어졌다.이 스타일은 1978년 처음 [141][142][143]공개되었을 때 대중의 반발을 샀지만 디자이너들은 80년대까지 과장된 어깨 패드를 계속 선보여 시장에 포화상태에 이르렀고 TV 유명인사에서 정치인에 이르기까지 모든 여성들이 [144]이를 채택하게 되었다.예를 들어, 영국의 마가렛 대처 수상은 이러한 패션이 점점 [145][146]더 표준이 되면서 그녀의 패션 채택으로 국제적으로 유명해졌다.너무 오래 전에, 이masculinized 모양 여성들이 기업 세계에서 성공을 추구하는 것은 mid-seventies에서 같은 purpose,[147][148]고 과장된 어깨 패드에 sensibly-proportioned 재킷 입었던 여성들이 늦게 여성들의 시도는 유리 천장은 그들의 번호의 지원을 받고 있었는데 임무를 산산이 부서지다의 아이콘으로 보게 되었습니다에 의해 채택되었다테이블 app놀란 [152]밀러가 스타들의 어깨가 넓고 발렌티노에서 영감을[151] 받은 의상을 디자인한 미국 TV [149][150]시리즈 다이너스티의 귀빈.

10년이 지나면서, 과장된 어깨 패드는 파워 드레싱으로 알려진 그 시대의 결정적인 패션이 되었고,[153] 그것을 착용한 사람들에게 지위와 위치에 대한 인식을 부여했다.1978년 가을 유행이 소개된 이래 가장 과장된 어깨 패드 크기조차 [154]80년대 중반까지 대중들 사이에서 받아들여졌고 심지어 보편화 되었다.브래지어 위부터 모든 옷에는 그들만의 어깨 [155]패드가 딸려 있고, 여성들은 종종 어깨 패드가 달린 옷을 다른 옷 위에 겹쳐 입는데,[156] 이것은 1978년 디자이너 페리 엘리스가 초기에 지지한 트렌드이다.과도한 어깨 패딩을 방지하기 위해 벨크로를 패드에 꿰매 착용자가 몇 [157][158][159]벌의 세트를 입을지 선택할 수 있도록 했다.탈부착 가능한 패드는 세탁[160] 시 패드가 변형되는 것을 방지하는 데 도움이 되지만 패드가 벨크로 스트립에 단단히 부착되지 않고 거친 면이 피부를 [161]긁히면 불편함을 초래할 수 있습니다.어깨 패드가 널리 보급되면서 여성들이 경험했던 다른 문제로는 오버사이즈[162] 의류에서의 미끄러짐과 패드의 변위, 지갑 [163]스트랩에 대한 간섭 등이 있었다.

이 기간 동안 대중에게 이름을 알린 유명한 어깨 디자이너로는 노마 카말리, 이매뉴얼 웅가로, 도나 카란이 있었다.카말리는 1940년대 스타일의 정장만 부활시키는 것이 아니라, 보다 현대적인 운동복 스타일에 커다란 어깨 패드를 추가한 디자이너 중 한 명으로, 1979년에 선보인 주름지고 힙이 있는 미니 길이의 스커트(rah-rah 스커트라고 불림)의 스웨트 패브릭 버전을 선보임으로써 1980년에 큰 명성과 영향력을 얻었다.같은 [165][166][167]소재의 어깨 패딩 탑을 선보이고 있습니다.[164]어떤 사람들은 이 컬렉션의 세계적인 성공이 2, 3년간의 디자이너들의 [168]홍보 끝에 마침내 대중들이 어깨 패드를 받아들일 수 있게 만들었다는 그럴듯한 주장을 했다.웅가로 씨는 스키아파렐리 시대의 에드워드식 [173][174]부흥 트렌드를 재도입하면서 매혹적으로 보이는 셔링, 루칭, 드레이핑의[171] [172]사용을 극대화함으로써 아마도[169][170] 그 시대의 파리 디자이너 중 가장 상업적으로 성공했을 것이다.1970년대 앤 클라인 레이블의 디자이너 중 한 명으로 명성을 떨쳤던 도나 카란은 80년대 중반 자신의 집을 열었고, 70년대처럼 일하는 여성들을 위한 다재다능한 분리대를 전문으로 했지만,[176] 시대에 맞게 80년대 스타일의 커다란 어깨[175] 패드와 더 포멀한 매력을 더했다.오늘날에는 눈에 거슬리지만, 80년대에는 과장된 어깨 패드가 너무 평범해서 카란, 웅가로, 그리고 다른 사람들의 거대한 어깨는 패션 작가들에 의해 종종 언급조차 되지 않았다.

1978~1980년대 가을 빅 숄더 패드의 기간 동안 디자이너와 패션 작가들은 종종 올해의 어깨가 [177][178][179][180][181]전년도만큼 크지 않다고 말했다.종종 어깨 패드 외에 또는 어깨 패드 이외에 퍼프 탑 소매,[183][184][185] 턱과 주름,[186][187] 어깨 플랜지[188][189] 또는 경직된 주름 [190]등 [182]어깨 확장을 위한 수단이 사용되었습니다.하지만 어깨 패딩은 80년대 중반까지 [191][192][193][194]유행했다.특히 큰 것을 보여준 가장 일관된 사람은 아마도 1985년에 "어깨 영원히!"[196]라고 선언한 클로드 [195]몬태나였을 것이다.켄조나 이세이 미야케 같은 일본인 디자이너는 실제로 그것들을 다루지 않는 디자이너도 있었지만, 대체로, 거의 모든 것에 그것들을 집어넣고, 무거운 구조의 어깨 패드를 두른 80년대 정장 재킷을 그들 자신의 버전으로 만들었습니다. 심지어 메리 맥파든이나 진 무 같은 보통 독립 디자이너들도요.어, 앙드레 쿠레주, 조르지오 디 산탄젤로.

80년대 디자이너들은 1950년대와 1960년대처럼 어깨 패드가 없는 초기 시대의 리바이벌 스타일을 만들 때 커다란 어깨 패드를 포함하기도 했다.예를 들어, 1950년대 케미즈 드레스의 버전은 1978년 빅숄더 시대의 시작부터 80년대까지 디자이너들에 의해 널리 보여졌지만, 진짜 1950년대 경사진 [197][198]어깨 대신 어깨 패드를 사용했다.비슷하게,[199][200] 티에리 뮬러가 1985년에 60년대 부활 스타일을 했을 때, 그것들은 그의 특징적인 거대한 어깨 [201]패드를 포함했다.심지어 60년대 부활주의자인 스티븐 스프라우스도 80년대에 어깨가 넓은 재킷과 탑코트를 [202]입고 그의 시대적인 완벽한 시프트와 트라우즈 미니드레스를 선보였다.1981년 [203][204][205][206]가을을 위해 짧은 제너럴 디자이너가 긴 치마와 숄의 일종의 70년대 중반 스타일로 돌아왔을 때, 대부분의 어깨는 70년대와는 달리 넓고 [207]패딩이 채워져 있었다.

이 모든 것이 대중에게 영향을 미쳤기 때문에, 그 시대가 끝날 무렵에는 일부 대중 시장용 어깨 패드는 디너 접시 크기의 것이었고, 1978년 [208]가을의 시작에서 보여졌던 하이패션 티에리 뮬러와 클로드 몬타나 패드 중 가장 과장된 크기였다.

그러나 80년대 중반에는 몇몇 저명한 디자이너들 사이에서 커다란 어깨 패드에서 벗어날 조짐이 뚜렷했는데, 비비안 웨스트우드는 그녀의 유명한 1985-86 미니[209] 크리니를 특별히 "이 큰 [210][211]어깨를 죽인다"고 소개했다.1986-87년 크리스티앙 라크로아의 유명한 미니 푸프 스커트 컬렉션에는 경사진 피추 [212]어깨가 주를 이뤘고, 1978년 큰 어깨로 이동하면서 초기 리더였던 칼 라거펠트도 1986년 어깨에서 패드를 꺼내 엉덩이 [213]바깥쪽에 눈에 띄게 배치했다.2년 후, 그는 이제 어깨가 [214]뻣뻣해질 것이라고 선언할 것이다.시대를 시작할 때 큰 어깨를 보여준 것으로 가장 주목받는 두 디자이너 티에리 뮬러와 클로드 몬태나는 10년 [215][216]중반쯤 그들의 어깨 크기를 줄였고 몬태나는 완전히 자연스러운 [217]어깨로 컬렉션을 선보이기 시작한 1988년까지 완전히 큰 어깨를 포기했다.아델린[218] 앙드레와 마크 오디벳과[219][220] 같은 아방가르드 디자이너들은 패드가 없는 경사진 어깨를 오랫동안 보여왔으며, [222]80년대 말 가장 예언적인 디자이너로 칭송받은 로미오 [221]질리도 그랬다.그는 커스텀 [223][224]재킷을 입고도 거의 전적으로 자연스럽고 경사진 어깨를 보여주었다.디자이너들 사이의 이러한 방향은 1989년[225] 워싱턴 포스트의 신년 인사/아웃 목록에서 "숄더 패드"가 아웃으로, "숄더"가 로 나열될 정도로 분명했습니다.[226]

그러나 대중과 소매상들은 10년 말까지 어깨 보호대를 진심으로 껴안았고, 그들이 그들의 양식을[227] 채우고 더 판매하기 쉬운 "행어 [228]어필"을 했다고 느꼈다.숄더 패드 제조업체는 말 그대로 매주 수백만 개의 [229]패드가 생산될 정도로 번창했습니다.디자이너들이 80년대 [230]후반에 새로운 신호를 보내기 시작하면서 많은 여성들이 실제로 큰 어깨 패드를 포기하는 것을 꺼리는 듯 보였다.눈에 띄는 어깨 패드는 90년대까지 완전히 사라지지 않았다.

1980년대 남성복의 어깨 패드

남성복에서는 1979년 하이패션 의류에 도입된 과장된 어깨 패드가 80년대 내내 다양한 수준으로 계속되었고, 심지어 [231]주류가 되었고, 많은 일상 업무복들이 [232]70년대에 입었던 것보다 더 뚜렷한 어깨를 가지고 있었다.하이패션 숄더 패드 모양은 디자이너의 취향에 따라 달라지는데, 한 [233]시즌에는 끝이 뾰족한 패드를 선호하고 다른 [234][235]시즌에는 둥근 패드를 선호합니다.이러한 스타일을 이끈 이유 중 [236]일부는 70년대에 광범위한 건강 및 건강 추구가 나타난 후 80년대에 심각한 운동이 증가했기 때문이다.Near-bodybuilder 신변이 정상적인 목표를 평범한 사람들을 위한 80년대 시작으로 둘 다 거리, advertising,[237][238]와 자켓 모양을 하고 심지어는 V-shape,[240] 다른 경우 더 많은거나 줄이는 것을 새로 built-up 우리는 허용하기 위한 패드를 하며 미래를 만들어 나가기를 어깨 패딩에 의해 this,[239]를 이루는 것 같았다.에 arer만의 신체재킷 [241]모양을 내다80년대가 끝날 무렵에는 큰 어깨를 자주 밝은 색의 스포츠 점퍼에 대한 유행 deep-cut에 입었던, 또한 종종 밝은 색의 근육 민소매 셔츠와 끈으로 된 탱크 셔츠 혹은 셔츠도 안 입고 전혀으며, 때때로shoulder-padded 재킷은 착용한 사람의 자신의chiseled 쉐 미끄러질 수 있도록 하는well-worked-out 몸통 show[242] 주고 있었습니다.ould어, 90년대 초반까지 계속된 스타일이죠.

1990년대

숄더패드 패션은 1980년대 후반부터 이어져 1990년대 초반까지 인기를 끌었지만 1980년대 [243]문화에 대한 반발로 착용자들의 취향이 달라졌다.일부 디자이너들은 1990년대 중반까지 어깨 패드를 특징으로 하는 제품군을 계속 제작했는데, 이는 1993년과 1994년의 The Numy의 초기 에피소드에서 잘 나타나며, 의상 디자이너 Brenda Cooper가 스타 Fran Drescher에게 80년대 후반 스타일의 s와 같은 옷을 입힌 것이다.모스키노와 패트릭 [244]켈리의 숄더 재킷하지만 10년이 지나면서 스타일은 구식이 되었고 젊고 유행에 민감한 착용자들에게 외면당했다.외관은 재킷과 코트의 어깨선을 보강하는 더 작고 미묘한 버전으로 축소되었습니다.

2000년대 및 2010년대

2000년대 후반과 2010년대 초반에는 어깨 패드의 부활이 있었다.많은 젊은 여성들은 스타일리시한 의상에 어깨 패드를 사용하는 것으로 알려진 팝 아티스트, 주로 레이디 가가와 리한나를 모방했다.패션 디자이너 컬렉션 등 많은 런웨이에서 어깨 패드가 존재했고, 1980년대 유행의 부활이 관심 있는 많은 사람들 사이에서 주류가 되었다.2009-2010 시즌에는 숄더 패드가 주류 시장에 [245]다시 진출했습니다.2010년까지 월마트와 같은 많은 소매상들은 여성 상의와 [246]블라우스의 적어도 절반에 어깨 패드를 장착했다.

2010년대 후반에는 어깨 패드가 다시 부활했다.미투 운동과 다른 여성 권력 운동, 여성의 정치직 선출의 증가, 그리고 1980년대 유행의 지속적인 부활과 함께, 많은 사람들이 어깨 [247][248]패드가 달린 옷을 입는 것을 선택하고 있다.

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레퍼런스

  1. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1931". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 112. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Schiaparelli and Rochas introduced militaristic, wide shoulders, using shoulder pads for coats and jackets.
  2. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1930-1939". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 106. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. ...Marcel Rochas...is given credit for the first padded shoulders...
  3. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1931". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 112. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Schiaparelli...established the silhouette for several years to come.
  4. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1940-1947". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 167. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. ...Dior's [New Look]...had been preceded by thirteen uninterrupted years of the square-shouldered Schiaparelli-initiated look.
  5. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1931". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 112. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Both Rochas and Schiaparelli were influenced by the 1931 Exposition Coloniale in Paris, which showed wide-shouldered Javanese and Balinese costumes and Bangkok temple dancers with winged shoulders and tiny waists.
  6. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1934-1945". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 123. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. The Indo-Chinese costumes at the 'Exposition Coloniale' in Paris in 1931 inspired Schiaparelli and Rochas to imitate the extended shoulders by introducing shoulder pads.
  7. ^ Amy De La Haye 1988, 패션 소스 북, 런던, 쿼토 출판사, 69, ISBN 0-356-15928-0
  8. ^ "Adrian, The Hatmaker's Son Who Dressed America - New England Historical Society". www.newenglandhistoricalsociety.com. 24 December 2016. Retrieved 2018-08-15.
  9. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1934-1945". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 123. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. ...[C]lothing designed by Travis Banton – broad-shouldered, outsized jackets... – was worn by Marlene Dietrich...[and] was widely copied.
  10. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1934-1945". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. pp. 122–123. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. ...[T]he mainstream daytime silhouette established by 1934 prevailed until the end of the war: a tightly waisted line with wide, if not padded, shoulders, and a straight, narrow skirt.
  11. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1932-33". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 132. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. Focus on the raised waist, emphasized by widened, heavier shoulders... The architectural V from shoulders to small fitted waist...
  12. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1931". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 110. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Most evening dresses were...wide at the shoulders...
  13. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1936". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 141. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Everywhere wide shoulders hovered over tiny waists...
  14. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1935". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 139. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Even Vionnet, the queen of femininity,...widened her shoulders...
  15. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1936". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 142. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. High shoulders were favoured by Vionnet...Vionnet['s] shoulders stood square and high, with folded fullness at the top of the sleeves.
  16. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1936". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. pp. 142, 143. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. High shoulders were favored by...Rochas....Rochas's spring suit has stiff shoulders...
  17. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1936". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 142. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Piguet's were shaped like canoe paddles, rising nearly to the ears.
  18. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1936". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 141. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. ...Schiaparelli['s]...padded shoulders were the widest...
  19. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1933". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 120. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. The high point of the Paris autumn collections was the demise of shoulder padding – exaggeration was now démodé. Only Schiaparelli continued to pad her...shoulders. Her choice prevailed.
  20. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1935". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 139. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Europe bristled with war scares and...the couture reflected the prevailing mood. Shirred breastplates put a brave front on evening dress, crowns and cocks were printed on blouses, epaulettes broadened shoulders, and braid or frogging adorned almost every chest.
  21. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1935-36". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 141. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. Daytime looks are severe and military, with square epauletted shoulders, frogging, plumed hats...Schiaparelli leads the military camp with regiments of fitted suits, drummer boy jackets and a forward 'putsch' of hats.
  22. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1938". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 151. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Schiaparelli's woollen capes with shoulders like an admiral's epaulettes, also seen in more modified versions at Alix and Molyneux.
  23. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1940". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 179. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. Suits ranged from the frankly military to the rather military...
  24. ^ Manchester, William (1975-03-02). "Style is the Changing Woman". The New York Times: 240. Retrieved 2022-02-10. Then came the war...One popular evening gown of the period was adorned with a huge swooping Air Corps wing of gold Iamé, beginning at one hip and curving upward across the bosom to the opposite shoulder....[G]irls who had no intention of joining the Women's Army Corps wore copies of WAC hats decked out with sequins.
  25. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1979-09-20). "Fashion: Shoulder It". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. In the '40s, the shoulder shape was what [shoulder-pad manufacturer Harold] Lopato calls 'saddle-shaped,' or sloping in the center. The pads were rigid.
  26. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1940". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 158. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. When [Claire McCardell] insisted on removing shoulder pads, which had prevailed since the early thirties,...her backers...considered this uncommercial. McCardell arrived at a compromise: she tacked shoulder pads inside so that they could be easily removed.
  27. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1941". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 161. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Molyneux, like McCardell in America, removed shoulder padding...
  28. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1945". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. pp. 178–179. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Balenciaga...softened and dropped the shoulder farther than any other couturier...
  29. ^ Manchester, William (1975-03-02). "Style is the Changing Woman". The New York Times: 240. Retrieved 2021-12-01. In late 1946, the Orphic couturier [Christian Dior] sketched abundant skirts barely twelve inches from the floor, with unpadded shoulders but stuffed brassieres and shoes and hats that made men gasp.
  30. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1940-1947". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 167. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. [Dior's] New Look...arrived on 12 February 1947...Dior's...woman had soft neat shoulders...
  31. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1940-1947". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 167. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. [W]omen were eyeing clothes with passionate longing....[Dior's 1947] New Look provoked extremes of delight in women, for whom each dress and suit was an orgy of all things most feminine...Shoulders are gently natural.
  32. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1979-09-20). "Fashion: Shoulder It". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. ...Elizabeth Simmons, owner of Ardis School of Design[,]...recommends cotton batting-filled pads...because they are more adjustable.
  33. ^ McEvoy, Marion (1978-11-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. Retrieved 2021-11-21. In the 40's,...shoulder pads were almost always made of stiff cotton batting and covered with felt....The pads looked great until the dress or coat was washed, in which case there were noticeable lumps and bumps.
  34. ^ McEvoy, Marion (1978-11-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. Retrieved 2021-11-21. In the 50's, business was 'still good — but down about one‐third from what it was during the 40's.' As for shoulder‐pad business in the 60's, [shoulder pad manufacturer Harold Lopato] simply says, 'It wasn't a particularly good decade for shoulders'.
  35. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1967-68". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 296. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. Ossie Clark...turns to the recent past for fawn jersey tailored suits with square shoulders, a forties-through-sixties-eyes look.
  36. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1971-01-28). "Givenchy: Elegance and More". The New York Times: 41. Retrieved 2022-03-18. ...Guy Laroche is concerned with the nineteen‐forties...[H]e made a big fuss over...broad-shouldered suits, bolero jackets, fluid crepe dresses with crepe capes á la Adrian and lots of other standards of that era.
  37. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1971-01-28). "Givenchy: Elegance and More". The New York Times: 41. Retrieved 2022-03-18. The part of the nineteen-forties look that Michel Goma has taken to his heart at Patou is the wider shoulder. On the sheerer styles, you can even see the pads.
  38. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-09-23). "Continuing the Aujard Collection". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-03-01. [In 1971, designer Michele Aujard] put huge shoulder pads in her clothes...
  39. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1971". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 322. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Thierry Mugler showed his first collection in Paris, which concentrated on an angular, wide-shouldered cut reminiscent of the forties.
  40. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1972-11-14). "Fashion Talk". The New York Times: 42. Retrieved 2022-06-22. ...Scott Barrie likes...squared-shoulder nineteen-forties suits with plunging necklines worn over no bra and no blouse. It wasn't that way in the forties.
  41. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1973-04-04). "Kenzo Displays His Imagination With a Fun-Filled Fashion Show in Paris". The New York Times: 38. Retrieved 2021-12-31. Daniel Hechter is popular with women in their twenties and thirties. Guess what he's up to? Padded shoulders on boxy jackets and pleated skirts. It's the kind of thing Yves Saint Laurent was hooted at for showing a couple of years ago.
  42. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1971-01-22). "Valentino Revivifies Fashions of 40's". The New York Times: 45. Retrieved 2022-03-18. If he doesn't bring back wide shoulders, toppers and the hip‐length vests that were called jerkins, he at least may spur the return of the big bands and the Lindy Hop.
  43. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1973-07-21). "Valentino Makes Sure They'll Return to Rome for Next Year's Show". The New York Times: 19. Retrieved 2022-06-22. His pitch was the nineteen forties...suits with padded shoulders...and square‐shouldered box coats to go over them.
  44. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1972-01-25). "Romance, Contemporary-Style, is the Parisian Look for Spring". The New York Times: 40. Retrieved 2022-06-22. Jean-Louis Scherrer...clothes have a late forties look with squared shoulders...
  45. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1974-07-23). "Paris for Fall: Listless Start and Why Revive the 40's?". The New York Times: 42. Retrieved 2022-01-24. [L]ast season, Scherrer was immersed in the nineteen‐thirties look. Now he's moved on to the forties. Joan Crawford, Rosalind Russell and all that. Squared shoulders. Padded turbans. Extravagantly beaded evening dresses. Again, glamour gowns for private clients. No guide to the future.
  46. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1970-07-24). "Saint Laurent, Ungaro and Dior: Many Styles, No New Look". The New York Times: 37. Retrieved 2021-12-03. Yves Saint Laurent was good for a few laughs...An obvious tart...sashayed through the salon. She represented the spirit of the nineteen-forties....The first spurts of laughter were followed by nervous reflection....Was Saint Laurent making fun of the nineteen-forties – or the audience? Or was the whole collection one big parody of fashion?
  47. ^ "Saint Laurent Retorts". The New York Times: 30. 1971-02-19. Retrieved 2022-01-11. Yves Saint Laurent's...World War II...look...in football shoulders and tight dresses...
  48. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1971-02-02). "Now Why Are They Throwing Brickbats at Saint Laurent?". The New York Times: 42. Retrieved 2021-12-03. Yves Saint Laurent['s]...spring collection...recalled the terrible time of collaborationists in France, bombings in London and wartime austerity in the United States....The forties trend is...inescapable in the Saint Laurent clothes. His shoulders may not be the widest in Paris, but they seemed so.
  49. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-09-23). "Continuing the Aujard Collection". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-03-01. ...[T]he clothes never sold. 'Women just didn't like it,' [Michele Aujard] said.
  50. ^ "Saint Laurent Retorts". The New York Times: 30. 1971-02-19. Retrieved 2022-01-11. ...[C]ritics...attacked [Yves Saint Laurent's] World War II floozy look...When his mannequins paraded like 1940s streetwalkers..., one critic cried 'hideous' and a...news magazine renamed him 'Yves St. Debacle.'.
  51. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1973-04-16). "Some Hems Will Be Lower, But It's Not Worth the Worry". The New York Times: 47. Retrieved 2021-12-31. After a brief flurry of interest in shorts for day and evening wear in the spring of 1971 on both sides of the Atlantic, women everywhere settled contentedly into trousers for practically all occasions....Blue jeans became even further entrenched as the uniform of the young and experimentation was limited to different toppings for pants.
  52. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-01-13). "Fashion: A Look at the Simple Truth". The New York Times: B4. Retrieved 2022-01-09. With a generation of office workers and executives going to work in T-shirts and blue jeans, formality in fashion was becoming a thing of the past....[I]t is possible for a woman to go anywhere, including black‐tie dinners, in a shirt and pants....Simplicity is the rule, and there's no need for a woman to clutter her closets with a lot of clothes...It is part of the simplification of life that comes under the heading of modernity. So is the fact that most clothes are soft and unstructured as well as interchangeable.
  53. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1976-01-01). "70's Fashion: Sportswear at the Summit". The New York Times: 36. Retrieved 2021-12-10. [T]he 1970's will be marked by clothes divided into many easy pieces that can be added to or subtracted from, according to the weather, personal preferences and the feeling of the moment.... Construction will continue to be simplified so that clothes become increasingly less bulky and more flowing. The style of the 1970's is low on artifice, high on a natural look. Casual is the operative word.
  54. ^ Mount, jr., Roy (1979-01-01). "Fashion". The New York Times: 18. Retrieved 2021-12-08. In the 1970's...[s]portswear emerged as the dominant theme, implying a relaxed fit and considerable versatility, since most clothes were made in interchangeable parts....For a number of years, it offered a serviceable way of dressing, geared to active women's lives, adjusting to vagaries of climate, adapting easily to travel requirements. As the sportswear onslaught continued, clothes lost their linings and interfacings, becoming softer, looser, less structured. Almost everything became as comfortable to wear as a sweater.
  55. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1975-07-31). "Applause Meter Gets a Workout at Saint Laurent". The New York Times: 18. Retrieved 2022-03-18. ...[T]hey...joyously applauded a plain gray flannel coat with broad shoulders that wrapped over a pin‐striped tailored suit and a very full smock coat in gray flannel....They love him when he is making mannish tailored suits with padded shoulders...
  56. ^ McEvoy, Marion (1978-11-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. Retrieved 2021-11-21. ...[T]he first three years of the 1970's...changed fashion and changed the way women wanted to look....'Suddenly more than half the American women were going to work. Their wardrobe requirements changed. They started looking for more classic styles to work in, to go to the office in. And,' [shoulder pad manufacturer Harold Lopato] says, 'more tailored clothes...always signal a more pronounced shoulder'.
  57. ^ Dullea, Georgia (1977-10-09). "Suited Up to Storm the Boardroom". The New York Times: 82. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...Wall Street women are...wearing the so-called success suit (tailored jacket and skirt...)...
  58. ^ Jacoby, Susan (1977-12-29). "Hers". The New York Times: 40. Retrieved 2022-05-07. [Woman's Dress for Success Book author John] Molloy...reports enthusiastically on a 'pledge' he says was drafted by women in one corporation: 'I pledge to wear highly tailored, dark‐colored, traditionally designed, skirted suits whenever possible to the office'...
  59. ^ Larkin, Kathy (1979-01-01). "Fashion". 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978. Crowell-Collier Publishing Company. pp. 249–252. In women's fashion, 1978 was a year of great change. It began with women submerged under layers of soft shapeless clothing...But the year ended with the same women shedding layers to emerge with a revamped fashion silhouette reminiscent of the 1940's, a look characterized by broad, even padded shoulders, tight waistlines, and shorter, straighter skirts....[D]esigners in Milan, Paris, and New York showed fall ready-to-wear collections that almost simultaneously reached the same conclusion....broad-shouldered fashions, the pared-down look of fewer layers, and the neater waist...huge shoulders, puffed sleeves to emphasize width further...[T]he fashion message was clear: Broad shoulders were in.
  60. ^ Duka, John (1978-07-02). "Fashion Profile". The New York Times: SM6. Koko Hashim, vice president of Neiman‐Marcus [says]...'There has been an enormous change in the silhouette, a broadening of the shoulders and narrowing of the hips — what we call the triangle... — that requires a reeducation of the consumer'.
  61. ^ Sweetinburgh, Thelma (1979-01-01). "Fashion and Dress (1978)". 1979 Britannica Book of the Year. New York, New York, USA: Encyclopedia Britannica. p. 378. ISBN 9780852293621. As fall approached, broader shoulders and slimmer hips conferred a trapezoid shape reminiscent of the 1940s...A major silhouette change in 1978 emphasized a broadened shoulder...
  62. ^ Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-12). "Why the Big Change Now". The New York Times: 226. Retrieved 2021-11-15. Fashion this fall has taken a dramatic new turn. Line, cut and shape are all controlled by the new wide shoulder.
  63. ^ McEvoy, Marian (1978-11-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. The return of shoulder pads is the big news this fall.
  64. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-11). "Shaking Fashion". The New York Times: 30. What thousands of fashion followers are muttering as they crisscross [Paris] to see the new fashions for fall and winter...is 'shoulders, shoulders, shoulders'.
  65. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1977-10-24). "Thinking Big for Spring". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. These [1977 presentations of spring 1978] collections will give buyers and manufacturers the assurance to keep making these clothes and making them bigger. And often more broad-shouldered.
  66. ^ Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-12). "Why the Big Change Now". The New York Times: SM226. Retrieved 2021-11-15. Yves Saint Laurent — the most influential fashion designer in the world — is being credited with starting this fall's dramatic shift of silhouette....What Saint Laurent sprang on the fashion world last January when he introduced man‐tailored suit jackets with shoulders squared out with padding...has now become staple fashion in Italy, France and America. As if by magic, wider-shouldered and leaner‐lined clothes have shown up everywhere at every price level. Fashion has taken a new turn.
  67. ^ McEvoy, Marion (1978-11-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. Retrieved 2021-11-21. Yves Saint Laurent's man‐tailored suit, introduced in January 1978, put emphasis on bigger, built-out shoulders. American designers simultaneously backed the built‐up look and started adding shoulder apparatus of their own.
  68. ^ "The Message from Paris Couture: The Tailored Suit is Back". The New York Times: 22. 1978-01-31. Retrieved 2021-11-12. It started on the first day of the spring and summer couture collections, when Jean‐Louis Scherrer sent out his mannequins in...mannish tailored suits.
  69. ^ Zito, Tom (1978-01-24). "The Garbage Bag Never Had It So Haute". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ... Jean-Louis Scherrer...has taken ...squared shoulders, short jackets,...
  70. ^ "The Message from Paris Couture: The Tailored Suit is Back". The New York Times: 22. 1978-01-31. Retrieved 2021-11-12. ...[T]he shoulders of the jackets seem particularly exaggerated...
  71. ^ "1978 Broadway Suit Collection". Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris. 'YSL's...mannequin...got ovations every time she sauntered out on the runway in another version of the spencer jacket'.
  72. ^ Buck, Genevieve (1985-10-02). "Shoulders: The Intimate Story". The Chicago Tribune. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...[T]he real credit for the whole shoulder-pad revival belongs to New Yorker Norma Kamali...
  73. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-12). "Saint Laurent: The Clothes are the Message". The New York Times: C14. Retrieved 2021-12-01. Saint Laurent...is broadening the shoulders and narrowing the skirts...
  74. ^ Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-12). "Why the Big Change Now". The New York Times: 226. Retrieved 2021-11-15. ...[Karl Lagerfeld's] current fall collection is one of the most outrageous in its thrust of broad padded shoulders and aggressive sexiness.
  75. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-10-23). "Getting in Shape". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. He explains clearly why he chooses this silhouette: 'Big shoulders give a woman a sense of grandeur and height and presence'.
  76. ^ Russell, Mary (1978-11-12). "How They're Wearing It in Paris". The New York Times. Retrieved 2021-12-12. Claude Montana's belted and wide‐sleeved coat in the status 'fabric'- leather- has the broadest shoulders in Paris.
  77. ^ Larkin, Kathy (1979). "Fashion". 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978. Crowell-Collier Publishing Company. p. 250. ...[A] wide-shouldered coat by Pierre Cardin, being cinched tight...by the designer himself, to emphasize that shapelessness had become quite passé.
  78. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1979-07-31). "Couture Forecasts Shape of Clothes to Come". The New York Times: C5. Retrieved 2021-12-01. Pierre Cardin probably has the widest, squarest shoulders in town.
  79. ^ Duka, John (1978-11-13). "Paris is Yesterday". New York. 11 (46): 112. Retrieved 2021-12-11. ...[I]f [French designers] have their way,...women will be wearing big, big, big padded shoulders...[T]he overriding trend from Paris was Retro...On the side of Retro are designers like...Jean-Claude de Luca...
  80. ^ Cunningham, Bill (1987-03-01). "The Collections Spring Forward". Details. New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp. V (8): 102. ISSN 0740-4921. ...[M]any Paris designers who came to prominence in the...Seventies established a style that assaulted the eye with aggressively padded shoulders and hard-edged, grand-scale proportions...Claude Montana, Anne-Marie Beretta and Thierry Mugler were the leaders of this movement.
  81. ^ Duka, John (1978-11-13). "Paris is Yesterday". New York. 11 (46): 112. Retrieved 2021-12-11. At Andrevie...shoulders were almost three feet wide.
  82. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-07-27). "YSL Reintroduces the Grand-Entrance Era". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Did you love the way your mother looked in the 1940s? If you did, you are in luck - because Yves Saint Laurent, clearly the strongest influence out of Paris, has designed a collection of haute glamour clothes for fall with roots in the Joan Crawford, grand-entrance era.
  83. ^ "Peplums and Picasso". The Washington Post. 1979-07-26. Retrieved 2022-03-03. It is back to the history books if you care to comprehend what the Paris fashion designers are up to...[T]here is a heavy dose of the 1940s in the fall designs, with broad-shouldered suits with fitted bodices, tightly nipped waistlines, and peplums, plus a heavy injection of the early 1900s...
  84. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-07-27). "YSL Reintroduces the Grand-Entrance Era". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...YSL was on this kick in earlier collections, and now he's changed the silhouette slightly...
  85. ^ Sweetinburgh, Thelma (1979). "Fashion and Dress". 1979 Britannica Book of the Year: Events of 1978. New York, New York, USA: Encyclopedia Britannica. pp. 378–379. ISBN 9780852293621. Designer after designer showed...the 'retro' look...of the 1940's....From the old days of Hollywood came puffed sleeves,...hats and veils,...rolled or pompadoured hairstyles of the 1940s,...seamed hose,...and even gloves.
  86. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-10-22). "Fashion Notes". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. The revival of the '40s look has brought with it the retro trappings of red lipstick, long gloves, stockings with seams and tiny hats with veils.
  87. ^ Duka, John (1978-11-13). "Paris is Yesterday". New York. 11 (46): 112. Retrieved 2021-12-11. Lagerfeld...has brought back the Merry Widow corselet, whalebone stays and all.
  88. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-11). "Shaking Fashion". The New York Times: 30. Retrieved 2021-12-01. Wide shoulders were an even stronger trend among the French designers than the military look their Italian counterparts favored..., but the invaders look as if they came from outer space, not from over the hill[, with]...helmet-and-goggles...accessories...
  89. ^ Duka, John (1978-11-13). "Paris is Yesterday". New York. 11 (46): 111–112. Retrieved 2021-12-11. On the Flash Gordon side of French ready-to-wear Retro are such designers as Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler, and France Andrevie....At Montana, it took the form of...Italian fascist gone science-fiction fantasy....At Mugler,...a big-shouldered Flash Gordon jacket...
  90. ^ "Fashion View". The New York Times: SM6. 1979-12-30. Retrieved 2021-12-10. ...Claude Montana's Mongolian Martian Look and Thierry Mugler's Star Trekesque gigantic shoulders....
  91. ^ Fraser, John (1979-03-20). "Comrade Chic". Toronto Globe and Mail. Retrieved 2022-05-07. ...[Pierre Cardin's] space-age shoulder pads...
  92. ^ Larkin, Kathy (1979). "Fashion". 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978. Crowell-Collier Publishing Company. p. 252. Designers everywhere were also being influenced by the World War II era in another way, as clothes took on a military look....[A]ccessories like World War II infantry caps, military ribbons, and bandolier belts abounded.
  93. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-07-14). "In America, Fashion as a Grace Note". Tne New York Times: C12. Retrieved 2021-11-12. Along with the giant pads came a kind of mindless toying with military looks...
  94. ^ Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-06). "The New Look, Hit or Miss?". The New York Times: 58. Retrieved 2021-12-10. ...Perry Ellis’s breezy designs with exaggerated, almost pillow‐padded shoulders...
  95. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-25). "Ellis Joins Blass in Fashion's Firmament". The New York Times: 42. Retrieved 2021-12-10. ...[T]he Ellis clothes...look absolutely comfortable and relaxed...Shoulders are padded...Mr. Ellis said he had no compunctions about adding padded coat to padded jacket to padded sweater.
  96. ^ Duka, John (1978-07-11). "Norma Kamali is Heading Out on Her Own". The New York Times: C2. Retrieved 2021-12-10. Norma Kamali...has become famous for her parachute dresses, sexy, shirred bathing suits, pegged, draped skirts...and...padded shoulders.
  97. ^ Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-12). "Why the Big Change Now". The New York Times: SM226. Retrieved 2021-11-15. This fall, [Calvin Klein] narrowed [his clothes]...and added a bit of shoulder padding.
  98. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-04). "In Milan, the Classic Prevailed Over the Romantic". The New York Times: 28. Retrieved 2021-12-10. Armani's...gift for fall is a long-jacket suit with military shoulders...It accompanies pants, skirts or culottes and it sometimes has epaulets....[S]oftening agents take the curse off the military look....It has broad, padded shoulders...
  99. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-04-01). "Military Two-Step on Milan's Runways". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-06-22. [Armani's] broad-shouldered, high-neckline jackets and coats are expected to be influential.
  100. ^ Duka, John (1978-11-13). "Paris is Yesterday". New York. 11 (46): 112-113. Retrieved 2021-12-11. The only designer who has managed to stay outside of the Retro mainstream is Kenzo...
  101. ^ Russell, Mary (1979-04-18). "Fashion/Beauty Fallout from Paris". The New York Times: SM19. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Kenzo goes his own humorous, playful way, creating amusing, young, almost 'toy' fashions.
  102. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1979-04-10). "Mickey and Minnie on the Paris Runway". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Kenzo...intended his showing of 'comic-strip' clothes to poke fun at the pretentiousness of his colleagues and the '[more-]couturier-than-thou' quality of their designs.
  103. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1981". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 377. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Kenzo's oversized tent shapes were belted and bloused.
  104. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-02-18). "No More Skirting the Issue, Dresses Have Come Back". The New York Times: 28. Retrieved 2022-01-23. Emanuel Ungaro...has sent...advance hints of his styles for next fall....Ungaro uses [a brushed silk shirt] as part of a layering plan that involves a matching vest. a skirt in the same fabric but a blending print, and a couple of sweaters....But Mr. Ungaro hasn’t forgotten about dresses. One of the prettiest a loose style in flowery wool challis...
  105. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1979-07-25). "Paris: A Peplum and Puffed Sleeve Revival". The New York Times: C16. Retrieved 2022-01-23. Ungaro['s] jackets had...peplums and...puffy shoulders.
  106. ^ Donovan, Carrie (1985-03-31). "Fashion: Feminine Flourishes". The New York Times: 80. Retrieved 2022-03-09. Karl Lagerfeld..., Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro and Hubert de Givenchy...continued with their versions of the rather aggressive broad-shouldered silhouette...
  107. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1979-09-20). "Fashion: Shoulder It". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. In the '40s, the shoulder shape was what Lopato calls 'saddle-shaped,' or sloping in the center. The pads were rigid. Today the shoulder line is straight, says Lopato, and the pads soft and more pliable.
  108. ^ McEvoy, Marian (1978-11-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. Today, shoulder pads are...often constructed of foam, nonwoven polyester filler, reprocessed cotton felt, ozite and sanforized or nylon thread...The result is a pad which retains its shape and doesn't disintegrate when washed....Average weight is about one ounce.
  109. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-11-10). "Beyond 'Retro'". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Nowadays, with fewer skilled cutters and tailors, and different fabrics, it just isn't possible or sensible to repeat an old style.
  110. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-04). "In Milan, the Classic Prevailed Over the Romantic". The New York Times: 28. Retrieved 2021-12-10. Bergdorf Goodman's Leonard Hanken...remark[ed], 'We'll have to train a whole new generation of tailors to put in shoulder pads properly. It's a lost art'.
  111. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1979-09-20). "Fashion: Shoulder It". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. 'I'm giving more instruction on how to make and place shoulder pads,' says Elizabeth Simmons, owner of Ardis School of Design.
  112. ^ Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-12). "Why the Big Change Now". The New York Times: 226. Retrieved 2021-11-15. Saint Laurent['s]...man‐tailored suit jackets with shoulders squared out with padding...looked not only boldly aggressive but startling and totally unexpected...
  113. ^ Buck, Genevieve (1985-10-02). "Shoulders: The Intimate Story". The Chicago Tribune. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...[In] the late '70s...really big shoulders reappeared, this time...broader than ever. Reactions to the doorway-wide affairs generally ranged from 'not for me' to 'never!'
  114. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-09-16). "Fall Fashion Blitz: The Show's the Thing for Washington Stores". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-03-27. The new broad-shouldered, retro-glamor clothes, military looks and black leather that most customers are seeing for the first time are considered quite shocking....Dorothy Vineburgh, an active volunteer in town, [says], 'No way will I wear those shoulder pads....I want to find something elegant and comfortable.' Richard Krolick, staff director of a congressional committee, wasn't quite so kind. 'It's like World War II!,' he said after one benefit this week. 'They have got to be kidding.'...[C]ustomers aren't loving all the clothes and the shows aren't generating large sales...
  115. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1979-04-11). "Not-So-Ready-to-Wear Clothes". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. ...[M]any [buyers] had trouble selling exaggerated shoulders...'I can't see women getting into cars with shoulders so broad,' said Wendall Ward, vice president of Garfinckel's...
  116. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1979". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 364. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. A hard, constructed, uncompromising silhouette prevailed: padded shoulders, sometimes three feet wide...
  117. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-07-14). "In America, Fashion as a Grace Note". The New York Times: C12. Retrieved 2021-11-12. ...[S]houlder pads...big and bulky enough to grace the shoulders of Gargantua.
  118. ^ McEvoy, Marian (1978-11-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. [Shoulder pad manufacturer Harold] Lopato picks up what looks like a hunk of mattress stuffing...'This,' he pronounces proudly, 'is our three-inch-thick shoulder pad which we worked out with [designer] Bill Kaiserman.'
  119. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1979-10-21). "Fashion From Paris". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2021-12-19. [B]ig pagoda shoulders...were [Cardin's] favorite silhouette...last March.
  120. ^ Taylor, Angela (1979-09-07). "Claude Montana's Space-Age Styles Touch Down on West 54th Street". The New York Times: A16. Retrieved 2021-12-18. [Montana's] shoulders...turned up at the ends, like pagoda roofs.
  121. ^ Donovan, Carrie (1978-11-06). "The New Look, Hit or Miss?". The New York Times: 58. Retrieved 2021-12-10. [T]he new look took — mostly in the less extreme versions, but with a few surprises. Broader shoulders have been accepted, up to a point.
  122. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1979-09-20). "Fashion: Shoulder It". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. ...[A]s the exaggerated showpieces were translated into saleable styles – with the broadened shoulder tapering to the waist and hemline – women responded positively.
  123. ^ "Autumn Inspirations, 1979". Couture Allure. 2013-08-05. Retrieved 2021-12-21.
  124. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-03-31). "At Milan Showings, the Clothes for Winter are Somber". The New York Times: A16. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Wide shoulders are obligatory this season. Some...styles...have a fold or flange effect that draws the eye outward.
  125. ^ McColl, Patricia (1985-03-17). "Paris Takes a Wide View". The New York Times: 69. ...[S]houlders [are] now [1985] proportioned to sports-page, rather than fashion-page, dimensions...Customers...don't seem to be bothered by the exaggerated shoulders. After all, they make the waist and hips look smaller.
  126. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-03-23). "Designers Say It's the Casual, Rumpled Look for Men this Year". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. Following the direction women's clothes have taken for the last two or three years, designers expect men to adopt a looser, freer, softer look in fashion...Changes include: Jackets with less inner construction, the built-in features that give a garment its shape. Instead, the clothes are supposed to take on the shape of the wearer and be comfortable, like a sweater. Softer, more loosely woven natural fabrics that allow jacket sleeves to be pushed up and collars turned up to underscore a more casual, even rumpled look. Clothes cut more loosely....American designers...refer to it as 'unconstructed'...
  127. ^ Salmans, Sandra (1974-08-25). "Seventh Avenue". The New York Times: 96. Retrieved 2021-12-10. ...[T]he Big Look...was pioneered in Paris a year ago by Kenzo Takada...with absurdly large skirts and coats....[T]he look features long skirts, dropped shoulders, dolman sleeves and large armholes, blouson jackets, blowing capes, and loose dresses–all laid on with layers of fabric.
  128. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1974". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 337. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Kenzo anticipated a major change this winter by creating a full, circular skirt, easily caught by the wind...The replacement of the short, kicky skirt by the longer, fuller style was the most important change in the silhouette...The new coat and cape shapes were also looser, fuller and longer – the hemline was anywhere from 3 inches below the knee to the ankle. This voluminous, unconstructed style was christened the 'Big Look'.
  129. ^ La Ferla, Ruth (1990-10-21). "Fashion: Sizing Up Giorgio Armani". The New York Times: 55. Retrieved 2021-12-10. [Armani's] career has been punctuated by a series of radical gestures, beginning with the unconstructed blazer of the mid-1970's - his epochal creation....The blazer, a calculatedly rumpled affair, featured sloping shoulders, narrow lapels, baggy pockets and an attenuated line. More importantly, it was endowed with a mobility previously unknown in men's suit jackets, except on Savile Row. It had the kind of comfort found only in sports clothing, which he achieved in part by stripping out much of its cumbersome lining and padding.
  130. ^ Alexander, Ron (1979-09-16). "Shoulder It, Men: Padding is Back". The New York Times: CN21. Retrieved 2021-12-10. Even men who shrug at fashion will probably find themselves in jackets with padded shoulders this fall. Broad shoulders are back...Calvin Klein['s]...shoulders are broad, not extreme, but there is definite padding....Pierre Cardin refers to his new silhouette as 'an upside-down triangle',...designing clothes with broader shoulders...Yves Saint Laurent...is building [shoulders] up again....Bill Kaiserman advocates...'strong but not extreme' shoulders....Lee Wright designs...clothing...inspired by the Italian V-silhouette...
  131. ^ Machalaba, Nick (17 August 2021). "Exclusive Archival Images from DNR [Daily News Record]: European Menswear". Women's Wear Daily. Fairchild Media. Retrieved 2021-12-18. A model poses in Pierre Cardin’s double-breasted suit with pagoda shoulders during the French men’s wear designer fashion show in New York on Oct. 8, 1979.
  132. ^ Russell, Mary (1979-03-04). "Men's Fashion". The New York Times: SM19. Retrieved 2021-12-10. Armani's 1979 jackets are wide at the shoulder with a narrowing at the waist and low button closing.
  133. ^ La Ferla, Ruth (1990-10-21). "Fashion: Sizing Up Giorgio Armani". The New York Times: 55. Retrieved 2021-12-10. At the end of the 1970's, Armani altered his style dramatically. Taking his design cues from Hollywood costumes of the 1930's and 40's, he widened the lapels of his suits and extended and padded the shoulders.
  134. ^ Katan, V. "Women's Shoulder Pads". Retrieved 19 November 2015.
  135. ^ Larkin, Kathy (1979). "Fashion". 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978. Crowell-Collier Publishing Company. pp. 249–252. (see previous Larkin citation)
  136. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-12-29). "This Season, Jackets Shape Up Shorter". The New York Times: A15. Retrieved 2021-12-08. Shoulders tend to be padded now or given greater width through puffs at the top of the sleeves...And the peplum jacket is reappearing...It's part of fashion's retro mood that...echoes...the 1940's.
  137. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1979-04-10). "Impresarios of Fashion Preside at Les Halles". The New York Times: C12. Retrieved 2021-12-08. Karl Lagerfeld['s]...jackets have peplums that jut out from sharply belted waistlines.
  138. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1979-07-25). "Paris: A Peplum and Puffed Sleeve Revival". The New York Times: C16. Retrieved 2021-12-08. The shape that Paris couturiers seem to have agreed upon for fall is the tightly fitted jacket with a small peplum...[w]ith puffed-top, leg-of-mutton sleeves
  139. ^ McColl, Patricia (1985-03-17). "Paris Takes a Wide View". The New York Times: 69. Retrieved 2021-12-08. ...Karl Lagerfeld pronounces, 'Shoulders are the roof of a house'.
  140. ^ McEvoy, Marian (1978-11-12). "Where the Pads Come From". The New York Times: 240. Retrieved 2021-11-15. (see previous McEvoy citations)
  141. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-09-16). "Fall Fashion Blitz: The Show's the Thing for Washington Stores". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-03-27. The new broad-shouldered, retro-glamor clothes, military looks and black leather that most customers are seeing for the first time are considered quite shocking....Dorothy Vineburgh, an active volunteer in town, [says], 'No way will I wear those shoulder pads....I want to find something elegant and comfortable.' Richard Krolick, staff director of a congressional committee, wasn't quite so kind. 'It's like World War II,' he said after one benefit this week. 'They have got to be kidding.'...[C]ustomers aren't loving all the clothes and the shows aren't generating large sales...
  142. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1979-04-11). "Not-So-Ready-to-Wear Clothes". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-02-07. ...[M]any [buyers] had trouble selling exaggerated shoulders...'I can't see women getting into cars with shoulders so broad,' said Wendall Ward, vice president of Garfinckel's...At one point during the five-day marathon of fall ready-to-wear shows, Robert Sakowitz, president of Sakowitz (Houston), asked Val Cook of Saks-Jandel, 'Do you know a good book store in Paris?...I want to buy a stack of Bibles,' he explained. 'I think we will all need to do a lot of praying to sell these clothes'.
  143. ^ Buck, Genevieve (1985-10-02). "Shoulders: The Intimate Story". The Chicago Tribune. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...[In] the late '70s...really big shoulders reappeared, this time...broader than ever. Reactions to the doorway-wide affairs generally ranged from 'not for me' to 'never!'
  144. ^ McColl, Patricia (1985-03-17). "Paris Takes a Wide View". The New York Times: 69. ...[S]houlders [are] now [1985] proportioned to sports-page, rather than fashion-page, dimensions...Customers...don't seem to be bothered by the exaggerated shoulders. After all, they make the waist and hips look smaller.
  145. ^ "Shoulder pads: A history". The Independent. 13 October 2009.
  146. ^ "Style Icon: Margaret Thatcher". oxfordstudent.com. 21 January 2012.
  147. ^ Dullea, Georgia (1977-10-09). "Suited Up to Storm the Boardroom". The New York Times: 82. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...Wall Street women are...wearing the so-called success suit (tailored jacket and skirt...)...
  148. ^ Jacoby, Susan (1977-12-29). "Hers". The New York Times: 40. Retrieved 2022-05-07. [Women's Dress for Success Book author John] Molloy...reports enthusiastically on a 'pledge' he says was drafted by women in one corporation: 'I pledge to wear highly tailored, dark‐colored, traditionally designed, skirted suits whenever possible to the office'...
  149. ^ Amy De La Haye 1988, 패션 소스 북, 런던, 쿼토 출판사, 170, ISBN 0-356-15928-0
  150. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1984". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. pp. 390–391. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Soap operas were a new fashion influence. Just as the cinema-goers of the thirties and forties had mimicked the wardrobes of Greta Garbo and Joan Crawford, so Joan Collins/Alexis and Linda Gray/Sue-Ellen became a source of inspiration. The soap stars wore the clothes of Saint Laurent, Ferre, Oscar de la Renta and Calvin Klein....[T]he viewers' definition of glamour was to be dressed up at all times...
  151. ^ Hyde, Nina (1985-03-28). "YSL, Robust and Refined High Hemlines for His Paris Show". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-03-09. ...[Dynasty star] Joan Collins sat in the front row of the Valentino show, furiously scribbling notes. No wonder. There were enough skinny, sexy, rich, even tarty clothes on the runway for Collins, her chums on Dynasty and lots of Dynasty aficionados as well.
  152. ^ Dailey, Martha Sherill (1988-10-09). "The Bold Shoulder". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Nolan Miller, the man responsible for designing the 'Dynasty' look,...his stars are pad-dependent. They'd never give them up, according to Miller....Miller believes in the survival of the shoulder pad
  153. ^ Dullea, Georgia (1977-10-09). "Suited Up to Storm the Boardroom". The New York Times: 82. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...[C]lothing consultants...are...counseling businesswomen on how to 'dress for power'.
  154. ^ McColl, Patricia (1985-03-17). "Paris Takes a Wide View". The New York Times: 69. Retrieved 2021-11-15. (see previous McColl citation)
  155. ^ Buck, Genevieve (1985-10-02). "Shoulders: The Intimate Story". The Chicago Tribune. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...[S]houlder pads have become a way of life to the fashion-conscious, invading not only the innards of coats and jackets, but sweaters and blouses as well....[T]hey`re showing up in the most unexpected places, including camisoles, teddies and even slips, bodysuits, pajamas, robes, sleepshirts, fashions for lounging and fashions for exercising.
  156. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-04-25). "Ellis Joins Blass in Fashion's Firmament". The New York Times: 42. Retrieved 2021-12-10. Mr. Ellis said he had no compunctions about adding padded coat to padded jacket to padded sweater.
  157. ^ Hyde, Nina (1981-08-18). "The Sweat Shirt Swath". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-05-07. Shoulder pads are on Velcro and can be removed for easy washing.
  158. ^ Buck, Genevieve (1985-10-02). "Shoulders: The Intimate Story". The Chicago Tribune. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Norma Kamali...designed the pads so that they could be easily removed or returned to their proper place via slim strips of Velcro,
  159. ^ "Shoulder Pads". V&A Explore the Collections. Retrieved 2021-12-11.
  160. ^ Dailey, Martha Sherill (1988-10-09). "The Bold Shoulder". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...[S]houlder pads deformed...in the dryer...
  161. ^ Dailey, Martha Sherill (1988-10-09). "The Bold Shoulder". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...the sandpaper sensation of Velcro against skin...
  162. ^ Dailey, Martha Sherill (1988-10-09). "The Bold Shoulder". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...[S]houlder pads...floated like loose slip straps on our shoulders...
  163. ^ Dailey, Martha Sherill (1988-10-09). "The Bold Shoulder". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...[P]ads shot up near our ears when straddled by a purse strap...
  164. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1979". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 367. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Norma Kamali...and Perry Ellis introduced the short rah-rah skirt...
  165. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1980". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 371. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Norma Kamali launched her 'sweats' collection: rah-rah skirts, leggings and jogging suits cut in grey and brightly coloured cotton sweatshirting. The tops often had huge, American-footballer shoulder pads. These low-priced co-ordinates were copied worldwide.
  166. ^ Buck, Genevieve (1985-10-02). "Shoulders: The Intimate Story". The Chicago Tribune. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...Kamali slipped oversized shoulder pads into vastly oversized sweatshirts in a collection of sportswear that took off overnight and found women, girls and even kids across the country happily looking like female footballers.
  167. ^ Dailey, Martha Sherrill (1988-10-09). "The Bold Shoulder". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Norma Kamali...in the early '80s took shoulders where they'd never gone before – imagine sweat shirts with sofa cushions in them.
  168. ^ Buck, Genevieve (1985-10-02). "Shoulders: The Intimate Story". The Chicago Tribune. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Since then, shoulder pads have become a way of life to the fashion-conscious,...
  169. ^ Cunningham, Bill (1989-09-01). "To the Future Through the Past". Details. New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp. VIII (3): 219. ISSN 0740-4921. ...Ungaro was continuing to drape dresses and cut suits, giving his designs an international influence greater than any other Paris couturier.
  170. ^ Horyn, Cathy (2010-08-20). "The Fall of the House of Ungaro". The New York Times. Retrieved 2021-11-27. [M]any people know Ungaro because it was prominent in the '80s and '90s. If you were a snooty boutique owner in Dallas or New York and you couldn't sell an Ungaro dress with the drapery pouring over the breasts and thighs like butter on a hot ear of corn, you had no business being in retail.
  171. ^ Luther, Marylou (1985-10-24). "Fashion". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-03-09. Emanuel Ungaro, who started the bodice-shirring trend two years ago, continues to refine this look that's now being copied all over the world. As anyone who's ever worn one of these drape-front dresses can tell you, the shirring allows freedom of movement in even the narrowest of dresses.
  172. ^ McCall, Patricia (1983-03-20). "Fashion Preview: Paris". The New York Times: 60. Retrieved 2021-12-15. As for Emanuel Ungaro, nothing is quite so seductive as a skinny sheath tucked under a big-shouldered jacket or coat. 'It is this contrast of wide on narrow that I love,' he says.
  173. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1984-07-31). "Affluent Fans Breathe New Life Into Paris Couture". The New York Times: C12. Retrieved 2022-03-17. Emanuel Ungaro's updated, sexy Edwardian clothes...
  174. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1934-1945". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 122. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Mae West visited Paris in 1936...Schiaparelli...was to dress her...The arrival of the...film star promoted a tidal wave of Nineties gaiety and...fashions....Edwardian costume balls and styles became all the rage.
  175. ^ Darnton, Nina (1985-04-14). "Fashion Profile: On Her Own". The New York Times Magazine: 70. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Miss Karan says,...'Somewhere in the back of my mind is the figure I always start with - wide shoulders and a shaped body, with round hips'...
  176. ^ Cunningham, Bill (1989-03-01). "Designers of the World, Unite!". Details. New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp. VII (9): 199. ISSN 0740-4921. Donna Karan drew her inspiration from the imperious screen goddesses of Hollywood in the Forties,...reinterpreting this spirit for...today.
  177. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-07-27). "YSL Reintroduces the Grand-Entrance Era". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Most of YSL's jackets have big shoulders (though he insists that they are smaller than a season ago)...
  178. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1979-07-31). "Couture Forecasts Shape of Clothes to Come". The New York Times: C5. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...[S]houlders...are padded, but usually not as exaggeratedly as they have been in the recent past.
  179. ^ Hyde, Nina (1980-10-23). "Familiar Wrinkles". The Chicago Tribune. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Last year's exaggerated football shoulders are gone from just about every collection, and designers have used shaped sleeves to achieve a far more attractive look of width at the top.
  180. ^ Hyde, Nina (1982-09-12). "Say It Simple". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Big puffed-out sleeves have been deflated, football-player shoulders have been tamed...
  181. ^ Hyde, Nina (1982-10-21). "Hips! Shoulders! Knees! Sexy Seams Slink Back Into Vogue As Yves Celebrates Two Decades". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Big shoulders continue, though scaled down from their earliest incarnation...
  182. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1980-04-29). "Fashion's Opulent Autumn". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. 'I wanted to take the padding out of the shoulder, but I felt it needed something at the top to replace it,' [Perry Ellis] explained. '[Capelet collars] were the answer'.
  183. ^ Larkin, Kathy (1979-01-01). "Fashion". 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978. Crown-Collier Publishing Company. pp. 251–252. ...Saint Laurent...confirmed huge shoulders, puffed sleeves to emphasize width further...
  184. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1981-08-04). "Couture: Styles of Splendor". The New York Times: C6. Retrieved 2021-12-01. ...[E]very...designer is content to achieve breadth across the top with such devices as leg o'mutton sleeves.
  185. ^ Hyde, Nina (1980-10-30). "Spring Blooms on Seventh Avenue". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Perry Ellis...has stashed away his old signature – padded shoulders...[H]e now has...width coming only from the rounded shape of the sleeve...
  186. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1981-10-19). "Ungaro and Saint Laurent Brighten Paris Showings". The New York Times: B10. Retrieved 2022-04-04. [At Ungaro, a] triangular fold just below the shoulder adds breadth but not bulk to the top of the body.
  187. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1986-03-26). "From Valentino, a Practical Elegance". The New York Times: C10. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...Ungaro...leather suits...had soft folds at the shoulders.
  188. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-03-31). "At Milan Showings, the Clothes for Winter are Somber". The New York Times: A16. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Wide shoulders are obligatory this season. Some of the styles shown here have a fold or flange effect that draws the eye outward.
  189. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1983-01-25). "In Paris, Long, Lean and Lively". The New York Times: C8. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Pierre Cardin...dresses...had cap-like extensions over the shoulders....[T]here are stiff flanges and revers on suits...and wings on the shoulders that seem as if they were about to levitate.
  190. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1981-04-22). "All Eyes Turn to Perry Ellis". The New York Times: C14. Retrieved 2022-06-22. Some of [Perry Ellis's] familiar heathery wool sweaters sport stand-up ruffles at the shoulder.
  191. ^ Hyde, Nina S. (1978-10-25). "Hourglass for Spring". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...[I]f you thought padded shoulders would pass with the football season, you are wrong. There are various degrees of padding, but clearly the broad-shouldered look has a wide following.
  192. ^ "Fashion View: A Tale of Two Cities". The New York Times: 72. 1983-06-12. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...[S]houlders, as in seasons immediately past, have been padded slightly, or a bit more so, but rarely with exaggeration.
  193. ^ Hyde, Nina (1984-10-09). "In Form for Spring". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Versace, too, has kept the big-shouldered...fit...
  194. ^ McColl, Patricia (1985-03-17). "Fashion Preview: Paris Takes a Wide View". The New York Times Magazine: 69. Retrieved 2021-12-01. ...[T]he talk is of wide shoulders...Yves Saint Laurent is...working with big shoulders...Valentino...tried to cut down on shoulder padding. Unfortunately, he says, 'Everything looks better with it'.
  195. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1979-10-19). "At Paris Showings, Both Creativity and Confusion". The New York Times: A20. Retrieved 2022-04-04. The mammoth shoulder pads shown a year ago [1978] are one of the disasters. Only Claude Montana has repeated them.
  196. ^ McColl, Patricia (1985-03-17). "Paris Takes a Wide View". The New York Times: 69. Retrieved 2021-11-15. As for Claude Montana, who is to big shoulders what Alexander Graham Bell is to the telephone, fashion is simple: 'Shoulders forever,' he says.
  197. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1979-07-31). "Couture Forecasts Shape of Clothes to Come". The New York Times: C5. Retrieved 2022-04-04. As in other clothes, the shoulders of the chemise are padded...
  198. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1983-10-25). "Looking for Keys to Fashion Trends". The New York Times: A32. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...Hubert de Givenchy...returned to the...chemise shapes promulgated by Balenciaga in 1957....Current versions have wider shoulders and shorter skirts than those of Balenciaga, but still offer a reprise on an earlier style.
  199. ^ Schiro, Anne-Marie (1985-03-26). "Notes on Fashion". The New York Times: A22. Retrieved 2022-02-08. Thierry Mugler reminded his audience of just what many of them looked like in the 1960's in their minidresses, wildly colored prints, beads and link belts of plastic disks. Remember those?
  200. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1985-03-22). "Japanese Designers Lower Shock Quotient". The New York Times: A18. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Thierry Mugler...is now into the psychedelic 1960's. Miniskirts and maxicoats, bell-bottom trousers, bubble-shaped dresses and Op Art jumpsuits, Afro wigs and short, straight Vidal Sassoon haircuts...
  201. ^ McColl, Patricia (1985-03-17). "Paris Takes a Wide View". The New York Times: 69. Retrieved 2021-12-08. ...Thierry Mugler opts for a less dramatic, sloping shoulder. 'But not narrow,' he says.
  202. ^ Donovan, Carrie (1984-06-24). "Aggressive American Design". The New York Times: 54. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Many observers claim that Sprouse's sleeveless mini shift dresses, with their flared tent shapes, are cookie-cutter copies of those of Courreges in the 1960's. Yet Sprouse's broad-shouldered, beautifully man-tailored jackets and coats...are selling in the stores.
  203. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1981-10-06). "Notes on Fashion". The New York Times: B8. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...the new Long and Strong look - long skirts, shawls, wrap coats and lots of layers.
  204. ^ Hyde, Nina (1981-04-06). "Costumes from Classics". The Washington Post. Vol. 6. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...French styles...are longer, fuller and more layered once again.
  205. ^ Hyde, Nina (1981-04-09). "Skirting the Classics". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. The big news is the appearance of the long skirt...There are voluminous shapes...[M]any of the designers like the look of lightweight layers...
  206. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1981". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 376. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. ...[V]oluminous skirts flowed from tiny waists to the lower calf and boldly printed and striped shawls and ponchos encircled fashionable shoulders.
  207. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1984-03-09). "An Ellis Collection Takes Past as Prologue". The New York Times: B6. Retrieved 2022-06-22. The clothes have the relaxed, natural look of [Perry] Ellis's first collection in the 1970's. Trousers are important. Colors are muted. Skirts are long and legs are clad in dark, thick stockings above low-heel shoes. Tops tend to be belted at the hips, and shoulders are broad.
  208. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1979-04-09). "Paris Fashions Unveiled in Super Bowl Style". The New York Times: D8. Retrieved 2021-12-08. Montana and Mugler both pioneered the giant shoulder‐pad movement last year [1978]...
  209. ^ Cunningham, Bill (1986-03-01). "Bright Spring Fashion Takes a Brave New Direction". Details. New York, NY. IV (8): 105. ISSN 0740-4921. Vivienne Westwood surprised her audience with...1860s bell-shaped, hoop-skirted dresses, with their layered panels now cut down to mini length.
  210. ^ Hirshey, Gerri (1987-06-07). "She Hoops to Conquer". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-05-07. In 1985, Westwood first showed her hooped mini-crini in Paris...[T]he idea caught on in the tonier fashion houses. The shape was refined and repackaged – by Christian Lacroix of the House of Patou...'I was trying to find a way to kill this big shoulder'...
  211. ^ Hyde, Nina (1986-12-15). "Petticoats Plus: Skirts' New Flair". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-06-22. ...[S]he says,...'The crinoline thing seemed to me to be the perfect thing to bring to an end...this shape of the inverted triangle, broad at the shoulders and tapered to the hem'.
  212. ^ Luther, Marylou (1987-08-01). "Paris When It Dazzles". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2021-12-01. Christian Lacroix...continues the poufs, puffballs and petticoats that first brought him international attention. New this season are...the simple shawls and fichus of Provence...
  213. ^ Cunningham, Bill (1986-03-01). "Bright Spring Fashion Takes a Brave New Direction". Details. New York, NY. IV (8): 116. ISSN 0740-4921. ...[A]t Karl Lagerfeld, shoulder pads were removed from the shoulders and moved down to the hips...
  214. ^ Hyde, Nina (1988-03-20). "Pouf! The Costume Party's Almost Over". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-06-22. ...Lagerfeld...says:...'There will be...tiny shoulders....You cannot hide behind the excesses of...huge shoulders'.
  215. ^ Cunningham, Bill (1 March 1987). "The Collections Spring Forward". Details Magazine. New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp. VI (3): 102, 120. ISSN 0740-4921. ...Mugler broke away from his heroic silhouette to a softer proportioned one....moving away from his heavily padded goddesses...in soft, delicate dresses and transparent gowns...with demure puffed sleeves.
  216. ^ McColl, Patricia (1984-10-14). "Fashion Preview: Paris Goes Its Own Way". The New York Times: 101. Retrieved 2021-12-15. Montana seems to have severely tempered his use of shoulder pads, which has been somewhat of a signature for him.
  217. ^ Cunningham, Bill (1988-09-01). "The Colllllections". Details. New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp. VII (4): 189. ISSN 0740-4921. Claude Montana...has lost none of his fierce originality in leaping from his aggressively padded shoulder silhouettes of the past ten years to an unpadded, natural shoulder.
  218. ^ Cunningham, Bill (1987-09-01). "Follies to Futurism". Details. New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp. VI (3): 131. ISSN 0740-4921. Adeline André designed sloping shoulders, the shape of the new futurists.
  219. ^ Cunningham, Bill (1986-03-01). "Bright Spring Fashion Takes a Brave New Direction". Details. New York, NY. IV (8): 109. ISSN 0740-4921. Marc Audibet...moved away from the prevailing padded-shoulder...
  220. ^ Cunningham, Bill (1987-09-01). "Follies to Futurism". Details. New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp. VI (3): 124. ISSN 0740-4921. Marc Audibet...advocates a small, natural shoulder or a dropped, sloping shoulder...that reduces fashion from its current screaming wallop of...heroic padded shoulders to a...whisper
  221. ^ Cunningham, Bill (1988-03-01). "Fashionating Rhythm". Details. New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp. VI (8): 120. ISSN 0740-4921. Romeo Gigli represents the avant-garde of Milan.
  222. ^ Cunningham, Bill (1988-09-01). "The Colllllections". Details. New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp. VII (4): 187. ISSN 0740-4921. The single most commanding collection...was Romeo Gigli's...
  223. ^ Hyde, Nina (1989-10-24). "The Cutting Edge". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-05-07. [Gigli's] shape is always narrow through the shoulder...
  224. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1986". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 399. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Grace Coddington of British Vogue admired his work: 'Gigli has dispensed with shoulder pads and still made the proportions work'.
  225. ^ Hyde, Nina (1988-11-06). "Clear Signs of Spring". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Shoulder pads have collapsed in many of the collections...
  226. ^ Hyde, Nina (1988-01-01). "The List: what's out, what's in as 1989 dawns". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. OUT: Shoulder pads. IN: Shoulders.
  227. ^ Dailey, Martha Sherill (1988-10-09). "The Bold Shoulder". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. It's claimed they give women a forceful physical presence and a V-shape...They mask bad posture, it's believed, and sloping, inadequate shoulders.
  228. ^ Dailey, Martha Sherill (1988-10-09). "The Bold Shoulder". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. They make even cheap dresses hang right....'Fabrics are less expensive fabrics now, so they need more support. And we keep a hanger from stretching out a garment in the store,' [shoulder pad manufacturer Harold Lopato] says.
  229. ^ Dailey, Martha Sherill (1988-10-09). "The Bold Shoulder". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Majestic Shapes, a shoulder pad manufacturing company in the South Bronx, makes 100,000 pairs a day, five days a week, according to its president, Harold Lopato.
  230. ^ Dailey, Martha Sherill (1988-10-09). "The Bold Shoulder". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. 'A few years ago, the network [hosting the TV show Dynasty] said no more shoulder pads,' [Dynasty costume designer Nolan Miller] says. 'Both Linda [Evans] and Joan [Collins] almost mutinied'.
  231. ^ Sustendal, Diane (1985-10-08). "Men's Style View: Assimilation". The New York Times: 146. Retrieved 2022-04-04. The padded shoulders, ventless back and slight suppression in the torso that are so prevalent in Italian and French tailoring...may have seemed a bit avant-garde...a few years ago, but no longer.
  232. ^ Dailey, Martha Sherrill (1987-06-11). "Luxury Lounging". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Alexander Julian['s]...jacket...shape has changed,...moving toward a broad-shouldered silhouette with wide lapels.
  233. ^ Schiro, Anne-Marie (1985-03-12). "Notes on Fashion". The New York Times: A28. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...[J]ackets with exaggerated shoulders that taper to narrow hips, and side vents placed so that hands can slip into pants pockets without disturbing the line. That is the new shape in men's clothes [Pierre Cardin] showed...
  234. ^ Duka, John (1985-07-09). "Notes on Fashion". The New York Times: B8. Retrieved 2022-04-04. The Armani suit owes much of its shape and swagger to the 1940's, with extremely broad and soft shoulders, very wide lapels and a gorge (that embattled little notch between lapel and collar) that is higher.
  235. ^ Dailey, Martha Sherrill (1987-06-06). "The Menswear Evolution". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...[S]emiconstructed jackets have slightly padded shoulders that slump nearly off the shoulders.
  236. ^ Gross, Michael (1985-09-08). "The Impact of Fitness on the Cut of Clothes". The New York Times: 98. Retrieved 2022-04-04. The exercise fad of the 1970's has become a fact of life in the 1980's.
  237. ^ Span, Paula (1985-12-19). "House of Pectorals". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. [Click modeling agency head Frances] Grill uses athletes with shoulders that barely fit into the sports coats they are supposed to be peddling...[like model] Sasha Mitchell,...[in] black pants and shoes and shoulders swollen by 90 minutes a day of lifting weights...
  238. ^ Gross, Michael (1985-11-12). "Notes on Fashion". The New York Times: A32. Retrieved 2022-06-22. Perry Ellis gave the fashion crowd a jolt with an uncharacteristically close-fitting men's and women's collection shown with sizzle by such models as athletic Jeff Aquilon, lithe Lise Ryall, Elle Macpherson, who is so fit she seemed to leap out of everything she wore...
  239. ^ Gross, Michael (1985-09-08). "The Impact of Fitness on the Cut of Clothes". The New York Times: 98. Retrieved 2022-04-04. ...[O]bserves Ralph Lauren,...'...Men's suits have gotten more shaped because they're working out'....Natural-shoulder suits are now more suppressed in the waist and broader in the shoulders, chest and back.
  240. ^ Gross, Michael (1985-09-08). "The Impact of Fitness on the Cut of Clothes". The New York Times: 98. Retrieved 2022-04-04. Guido Petruzzi, president of Giorgio Armani Fashion Corporation, the designer's American manufacturer, says that Mani's V-shaped suit represents 'an extreme,' but he thinks American consumers are coming to accept it. 'All that work and energy,' Petruzzi remarks. 'A suit without shape doesn't show it off'.
  241. ^ Hyde, Nina (1981-10-01). "Julian's Bright Ideas". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2022-04-04. 'American men have their own shoulders and don't need any padding,' [Alexander Julian] says.
  242. ^ Gross, Michael (1985-09-08). "The Impact of Fitness on the Cut of Clothes". The New York Times: 98. Retrieved 2022-04-04. The two-button suit is 'the most important,' says Ralph Lauren, because, by showing more of the chest, 'it's more flattering to the body'.
  243. ^ Cunningham, Bill (1989-09-01). "To the Future Through the Past". Details. New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp. VIII (3): 214. ISSN 0740-4921. This viewer [fashion writer Bill Cunningham] was fascinated by an almost puritanical simplicity that was sweeping into many collections...as a reaction against the excessive riches and embarrassing prices...of the Eighties.
  244. ^ Gonzales, Erica (2020-02-06). "Fran Drescher Knows She's an Instagram Fashion Icon". Harper's Bazaar. Retrieved 2022-06-12. You can thank costume designer Brenda Cooper...for the spectacle of Nanny Fine’s wardrobe....[S]tandouts were by Moschino or Dolce & Gabbana...
  245. ^ "Poof! Shoulder pads puff back". New York Daily News.
  246. ^ Glamour Magazine (11 December 2008). "Trend Alert: Shoulder Pads Are Back!". Glamour.
  247. ^ "Our Favorite Throwback Trend Has a History of Female Empowerment". Coveteur. 2019-04-04. Retrieved 2020-12-19.
  248. ^ Kim, Leena (2020-11-09). "Long Live Alexis Carrington: Dynasty Shoulders Are Back!". Town & Country. Retrieved 2020-12-19.

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